Idiothele mira Care Sheet
Welcome to the world of Eight Legged Beauties, where we turn fuzzy fear into fascination!
Today we’re turning the spotlight on a trap-door tarantula with a splash of color — Idiothele mira, better known as the Blue-Footed Baboon Tarantula. Despite being relatively small, this spider is packed with personality: it builds silk-lined burrows with a trapdoor, sports bright metallic blue feet, and remains deceptively reclusive and defensive — truly one to observe rather than handle.
Meet the Species
Scientific name: Idiothele mira
Common name: Blue-Footed Baboon, Blue-Foot Baboon Tarantula
Type: Fossorial, trap-door burrower
Native to: Southern Africa (South Africa)
Adult size: Up to ~4.5″ diagonal leg span
Temperament: Defensive and reclusive — very fast, uses ambush from its burrow; not for handling.
Lifespan: Females ~10–12 years (some sources up to ~15), males ~3–4 years.
Experience level: Intermediate → Advanced (due to trap-door behavior, speed, and defensive nature)
Fun Fact:
Its vivid blue tarsi (feet) come from a powdery coating, not just colored hairs — and they build real trap-door burrows with silk, soil, and plant material!
Setting Up Their Home
In the wild, I. mira lives in dry savanna and scrubland, where it constructs deep burrows under rocks or wood, often sealing the entrance with a silk-lined trap-door.
Enclosure Tips
• For spiderlings: Use a small acrylic box, ~3× leg span wide.
• For juveniles: Medium terrestrial enclosure, width ~3–4× leg span.
• For adults: Larger terrestrial setup, width ~3–4× (or more) leg span; height kept modest to avoid fall risk.
• Orientation: Wider than tall — emphasizes horizontal space over height.
• Security: Ensure a tight-fitting lid, well-drilled ventilation holes; these spiders can be escape artists.
Substrate
Use about ½ to ¾ of the enclosure depth of:
Organic topsoil / Terra Aranea (or similar mix)
Keep it firm but diggable
For slings: maintain one slightly damp corner; for adults: mostly dry with a moist retreat zone
Add a hide like cork bark, a fake plant, or half a flowerpot. A shallow water dish is essential, even if rarely used.
Temperature & Humidity
Setting Ideal Range Tips
Temperature 70-78°F Room temp is usually fine. Avoid heat lamps or direct sunlight.
Humidity 50-60% Keep mainly dry substrate; lightly mist or overflow water dish occasionally.
Ventilation High Proper airflow prevents mold.
Pro Tip:
Keep substrate’s lower layers a bit damp but let the top layer dry — it gives your tarantula options to pick its comfort zone and mimics natural ground layering.
Feeding Time
Spiderlings
Feed 2× per week
Pinhead crickets, fruit flies, or tiny roaches
Remove uneaten prey after 24 hours
Juveniles
Feed every 7–10 days
2–3 small crickets or one medium roach
Adults
Feed every 2–3 weeks
4–5 large crickets or one adult Dubia roach
Tip:
A healthy tarantula’s abdomen should be roughly the same width as its carapace.
Too plump = overfed. Too thin = time for a snack.
After a molt, always wait until the fangs are black again before offering food.
(Usually 24–48 hrs for slings, up to a week or more for adults.)
Behavior & Temperament
• Spiderlings: Tend to dig quickly, build burrows, and remain concealed.
• Adults: Spend most of their time hidden in their burrow under the trap-door; ambush prey from within.
• Handling: Not recommended — they are fast, defensive, and their trap-door habitat makes them unpredictable.
Observation tip:
Keep an eye on the entrance of their burrow. Fresh webbing, changes in soil, or the trap-door’s position can tell you a lot about their mood and activity.
Common Challenges
Too damp: Mold and mites increase ventilation
Too dry: Dehydration or failed molts
Overfeeding: Lethargy or injury from bloated abdomen
Frequent handling: Stress and hair kicking
Also watch for escape attempts; this species is fast and can dart out if the lid isn't secure.
Final Thoughts
Idiothele mira (Blue-Footed Baboon) is an extraordinary fossorial tarantula — its cobalt blue feet, trap-door building behavior, and reclusive lifestyle make it a true gem for keepers who appreciate natural behaviors over display or handling. While its care is relatively straightforward for an Old World burrower, its defensive temperament and specialized burrow needs mean it's best suited to intermediate-to-advanced keepers who are patient, observant, and set up for deep substrate and structure. Give it the right setup, time, and respect — and you'll get to enjoy one of the most behaviorally fascinating tarantulas in the hobby.